Guide
Growing tomatoes successfully
Tomatoes reward careful attention to warmth, support, and sideshot removal. Most failures come from cold stress or letting plants become too congested.
Start warm, stay warm
Tomatoes need consistent warmth to perform. Sow indoors at 20–25°C from late February to early April. Do not move plants outside or into an unheated greenhouse until nighttime temperatures are reliably above 10°C - in the UK this is usually late May or early June. Cold stress at any stage sets plants back significantly and can prevent fruit set.
Cordon vs bush types
Cordon (indeterminate) varieties like Sungold and Gardener's Delight grow as a single stem and need regular sideshot removal and vertical support. Bush (determinate) varieties are more compact, need little pinching out, and are better suited to pots and outdoor beds. Check your variety before deciding on a training method.
Removing sideshoots
On cordon varieties, remove sideshoots - the shoots that grow in the junction between the main stem and a leaf branch - when they are small, ideally under 2 cm. Snap them cleanly with your fingers rather than cutting to reduce disease risk. Do this weekly during the growing season. Missing sideshoots leads to an unmanageable, fruit-poor plant.
Feeding and watering
Once the first truss of flowers has set, begin feeding with a high-potassium liquid feed every 7–14 days. Water consistently - irregular watering after a dry period causes blossom end rot and fruit splitting. Aim for evenly moist compost rather than wet/dry cycles.
Pinching out at the end of season
In late July or early August (UK), pinch out the growing tip two leaves above the highest truss to redirect energy into ripening existing fruit. Any fruit that has not begun to colour by September can be brought inside to ripen on a windowsill - do not put them in the fridge.
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